The word evokes mystery and exoticism: Chinatown.
| A century ago, the Inland Valley was home to at least a half-dozen
Chinatowns - small villages in Cucamonga, Alta Loma, Upland, Claremont and
Pomona housing the Chinese men who labored in local vineyards and citrus
groves.
The villages and the men who populated them are long gone.
All that's left is a simple, clay-tile building in Rancho Cucamonga, fenced
off because its rotting state poses a danger to anyone entering. |
Some
Chinese workers in the Inland Valley picked citrus
fruit, while others picked grapes or dug tunnels. |
Still referred to as the China House, the 1919-vintage building on San
Bernardino Road at Klusman Avenue, and the old trees around it, are the only
visual reminders of an intriguing, little-documented slice of local
history.
"Just about every town in California would have had some kind of Chinese
community," said Don Clucas, who wrote a history of Rancho Cucamonga titled
"Light Over the Mountain."
"One of the interesting things about the village in Cucamonga,"
Clucas added, "is that the building still exists, so people know exactly
where it was."
The villages' very existence is a testament to the casual racism of the
times.
In California, Chinese were forced to live in undesirable parts of town
separate from whites. Exclusion laws barred most Chinese immigration from 1882
until 1943. Anti-miscegenation laws condemned most unmarried men to
bachelorhood.
They lived under the threat of harassment and violence. Riverside's Chinese
village was destroyed by arson in 1893. Around the same time, the National Guard
had to be called into Redlands when 400 whites rioted against the Chinese
there.
Life in the Inland Valley's Chinese villages was also punctuated by fire,
although there is no evidence of arson. A fire broke out in Upland's Chinatown
in 1914 but was extinguished quickly. An accidental fire in Cucamonga's village
in 1919, however, destroyed the community.
Chinese workers arrived in the valley around 1870 with the completion of the
major railroads. Needing work, they dug water tunnels in the San Gabriel
Mountains, picked grapes in Cucamonga and worked as servants in private homes
and hotels.
As elsewhere, Chinese were subject to harassment by anti-immigrant
forces.
"It was felt they were taking jobs away from white men," Clucas
said.
In 1893, two anti-Chinese meetings aimed at boosting employment of whites
were reported in the Ontario Observer, according to Maricarmen Ruiz-Torres,
registrar of the Ontario Museum of History and Art.
That November, the Observer reported that the Ontario Hotel fired its Chinese
cooks in favor of white labor.
Pomona went even further. Spurred on by an editorial campaign by the Pomona
Progress, residents raised money to build and operate a steam laundry, with the
goal of driving small Chinese hand laundries out of business - and the Chinese
out of town.
It worked. By the 1890s, most of the city's Chinese population was gone. Some
became citrus pickers in more-hospitable La Verne and San Dimas.
Perhaps the local Chinese population had small victories to savor. In at
least one recorded instance, racism was deftly put down by a Cucamonga
villager.
On a sweltering summer day, a bookkeeper named Smith took some visiting
friends from Boston around Cucamonga in his new Model T. Finding a group of
Chinese relaxing in the shade on stools, Smith decided to show off for his
friends, greeting one villager by saying in mock-Chinese, "Heapy hot
day."
The man looked up and replied in perfect English, "Yes, it is a very
warm day indeed, sir."
Some people welcomed the Chinese, if nothing else because the cheap labor was
appreciated.
Most Chinese in Cucamonga worked for Newell Milliken on his 260-acre ranch,
located near modern-day Haven Avenue and Arrow Highway.
They cleared land and picked up to 1,000 pounds of grapes a day for a wage of
90 cents. The late Ruth Milliken, who was a girl at the time, told historian
Clucas that the Chinese were treated well and considered like family.
When one worker, a man named Puy, had managed to save $3,000 to finance a
return by boat to China, the Millikens threw a party for him the night before
his departure and took his photo with various family members.
The next morning, though, Newell Milliken found Puy in the fields, sitting
dejectedly on the tongue of a wagon.
"Me one big fool," Puy told him. "I lose $3,000 gambling last
night."
Puy went back to work, swore off any more Fan-Tan card games and eventually
returned to China.
Many Chinese dreamed of going back home. Some returned voluntarily when
they'd saved enough money; others, at least elsewhere in the state, were
deported illegally. The numbers of Chinese in the Inland Valley dwindled in the
1910s.
Perhaps the final blow came in 1919. Fire destroyed Cucamonga's Chinatown
when a villager, using gasoline to stoke a stove, accidentally caused an
explosion that set the village ablaze. He died, and the 20 remaining laborers
were housed in a winery while new dwellings were built.
These new houses, among them the China House that still stands today, didn't
feel as much like home to the Chinese. Within a few years, most of them had left
- either for China or other Chinatowns - or died of old age.
In 1935, a man named Loy Wong returned to China and received a warm send-off
in the Upland News, which reported that the famed trees in the Euclid Avenue
median might owe their existence to his volunteer care, which included hauling
water there in barrels.
By 1939, there was reportedly just one elderly Chinese man left. Most
histories give his name as Mah Wong, although a photo in the Upland Library
collection captioned "last Chinaman in Cucamonga" bears the name Lee
Lung.
His neighbor, Louella Wangler, told Clucas that the 87-year-old Wong would
stop by her home each day to ask if he could help. He would wash clothes, cook,
run errands and even baby sit.
One day, he brought over a paper bag containing pieces of newspaper torn like
confetti. "Please, when I die, sprinkle these pieces of paper around me to
keep the devil away," he asked her.
A few days later, he died. Wangler and a friend took his body to potters'
field in San Bernardino, and there, around his coffin, they sprinkled the
confetti to carry out his last wish.
The China House continued to be used as a dwelling. Its history was unearthed
in 1985 when students digging on the property found rice wine bottles, soy sauce
jugs, medicine bottles and pots used in opium pipes.
| In 1988, the Cucamonga County Water District, whose offices are across the
street, bought the property with an eye toward expansion.
Because of earthquake concerns, however, the building is fenced off. District
officials aren't sure what to do with it. |
1930s Photo from Upland Library (last wav of 1880s immigrants) |
The building stands, if somewhat shakily, as a memorial to a time of both pride
and shame. |